It’s
a fact of life on the trail; what goes up, has to go down. By midmorning I was starting the
descent off the rim. The
tread started out as a dusty Jeep road, then quickly dissolved to volcanic
debris, then turned back to a dirt and dust trail.
On the horizon was water, and
lots of it. Crystal Lake
and Baum Lake came into view and together they formed the Crystal Lake
Hatchery. Drinking water
was available at the hatchery, but not needing any, I passed on by. My goal for the day was to get
into the town of Burney Falls where I had a resupply package waiting for me,
including a new pair of Keen Voyageur shoes.
The
Keen shoes I’ve been wearing I received from my wife at Donner Summit; they
only have 250 miles on the tread, but the soles were separating from the
uppers, and I couldn’t chance putting more miles on them before replacing them. Fortunately, REI has an
excellent return policy, and on my return home I’ll take the malfunctioning
shoes back to them for a full refund.
I arrived
at Highway 299, the road leading to Burney Falls, at noon. I crossed the
highway and stepped back into the woods, where I proceed to clean up a bit; I
took a sponge bath, brush my teeth, and put on some deodorant, then stepped
back out onto the pavement to solicit a ride into town.
In three
and a half minutes flat, I had a ride. Coming up the hill, on the
opposite side of the highway, I watched an SUV pass me, slow down, flip a
U-turn and pull alongside of me. Inside the car was a mother with two
little girls in the back seat. After all this time on the trail, I still
find it incredibly hard to understand why a female, and this time one with two
small children, would intentionally interrupt her schedule, as well as alter
her direction of travel to purposely turn her car around, pull up in front of
me and offer me, a total stranger, a ride into town eight miles away. I
could see a crusty old construction worker with a beat-up pickup doing such,
but a mother with two small kids… I have to admit, I said a prayer before going
out on to the highway to hitch a ride, and like so many times before, my prayer
was immediately answered. Coincidence? probably not.
Seated in
the car beside the two small girls heading into town, I asked the driver the
same question I’d asked so many other female drivers - why she interrupted her
direction of travel, flipped a U-turn, and drove over to where I’m standing to
offer me a ride, and her answer was the same as the others; she said she just
felt impressed to do so.
She said
she was a nurse who worked in another town, and was headed to work when she saw
me standing there. From my pack and trekking poles, she said she knew I
was a PCT hiker, and that it was okay for her to offer me a ride. The
awesomeness of charity and gratitude is what the trail is teaching me.
My
host/driver stopped in front of the post office and let me out. I thanked
her for her graciousness, and said “Good-bye” to her and the two small
children, then walked over to the post office. My package hadn’t arrived
yet; it was still at the post office in Redding, but the postmaster assured me
it would be at his place in the morning, and he would see that it was put on a
special-delivery truck headed to the post office at Burney Falls State Park.
“It will
be there by ten o’clock in the morning,” he assured me.
I walked
next door to the Subway shop, bought and consumed a foot-long sandwich and
drink, then wandered on down to the Safeway store to see what other delights
would entice money out of my wallet. On the sidewalk in front of the store,
I found, Pia, Cowgirl, Charlie, and Sherpa C eating lunch and packing supplies
into their packs, as well as recharging cell phones. These kids were
eating green salads with avocados, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc., -- healthy
stuff, which is what I probably should have been eating, but when I came out of
the store, I had a half-gallon of milk, two packages of cookies, and a pint of
Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream. To each his own.
In a
garbage can next to the ice machine, I found a large piece of cardboard and
made a sign that said "Pacific Crest Trail – Just 8 Miles, Please,"
then back out onto the highway I went. Within ten minutes, I had two drivers
vying to give me a ride. Just as the first truck stopped, another vehicle
with a middle-aged couple in it stopped in the opposite lane to offer me a
ride; I said, “Thanks,” but indicated that I would go with the pickup truck
that had just stopped
Baum Lake and Crystal Lake seem to be interconnected. The primary water source for these lakes are springs that gush forth thousands of gallons of water a day.
Water from the lakes moving on down the river towards Burney Falls.
Crystal Lake Hatchery is obviously a great place to fish.
At the Safeway store in Burney Falls, I found Clair recharging her phone.
Sherpa C was also at the Safeway store.
Now that I've finished my business in Burney Falls, it's time to get back on the trail.
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