By early
afternoon, the clouds that were sparse and widely separated this morning, had
solidified into a mass of dark, grumpy thunderheads, spewing out raucous
thunder and dazzling lightning bolts. After
the first few drops, the three of us realize that the rain was for real, and we
stopped, dropped our packs, and dug into them to find our rain jackets and rain
pants. Of course, mine were
on the very bottom of my pack and I had to pull everything out to get to them.
Runs-with-Elk was up the trail a
little bit, but Cookie was beside me. She
had her rain gear on in a flash, while I’m still fumbling with mine. To my astonishment, rather than
walking on up the trail after she had donned her rain jacket and backpack, she
waited for me while I put on my rain gear, sealed up my backpack and shouldered
it. Because it took time
for me to locate my rain gear and put it on, I got soaked from the rain, which
made me a little disgruntled.
The
mere fact that Cookie waited for me, to ensure that I was okay with my gear,
rather than taking off and leaving me to fend for myself, really impacted me. She was considerate of me and my
needs, and whether she knew it or not, the simple act of waiting for me to
complete my task sent a message that said,
“I care
about your welfare and want to make sure you’re okay before I move on up the
trail.”
If she
had headed on up the trail after putting on her rain gear, it would have sent
the exact opposite message, something like,
“Adios
amigo, I’m out of here, you’re on your own.”
For the
rest of my journey, I reflected time and again upon this small, almost
seemingly insignificant incident that I would refer to as, “She waited for me.”
The lesson I learned from this experience was that if I felt this much
gratitude for such a small act of kindness, how could I pay it forward in order
to enrich and touch with kindness the lives of others? Thank you, Cookie,
for an act of compassion you’re probably not even aware you participated in.
We walked
for several hours in the on-again, off-again rain, and decided to camp around
5:00 p.m. after coming to a clearing beside a road junction. We
scattered, each looking for just the right place to set up our tent. I
moved away as far as I could, as I didn’t want to disturb the two when I got up
in the morning. The two girls would get on the trail between seven thirty
and eight in the morning, but I would be up at four and long gone before they
began to stir.
I thought
I had left the beauty and the splendor of the Sierras behind, but the section of
the trail I was now encountering in the Trinity Alps Wilderness and the Russian
Wilderness would definitely qualify as a close second. The mountains'
ridges were high, and the trail builders, staying true to their mandate, kept
the trail as close to the crest of the mountains as possible, thus affording
spectacular views down long canyons, many of which were carved by glaciers.
The trail had long runouts along the sides of the mountains, and when it
could go no farther, it crossed over a ridge and continued on the other side.
The mountain slopes were steep and canyons that were eroding towards the
crest of the mountains were steeper still.
There was
little evidence to suggest the presence of volcanoes, as these mountains were
composed of granite just like the Sierras. Often, the only way to build
the trail through these mountains was by blasting through solid rock, and then
stacking the debris to form a level platform on which to construct the trail.
The trail
wound its way through boulder fields with rocks the size of automobiles along
precipitous ledges, through forested slopes, across saddles and over crests,
always seeking the high point to provide the hiker with the best scenic views.
Cookie
and Runs-with-Elk passed me before mid-morning at a place where the trail sloped
upward towards a high ridge. As they climbed higher and higher, it became
difficult to see them and eventually they were lost from view. I gauged
the time it would take me to reach the point where they had disappeared over
the crest and guessed thirty minutes. Upward I climbed, falling back on
my true and trusted method for making big climbs – counting eight steps at a
time, then repeating the same over and over again. In the time I
specified, I was at the crest and crossed over, only to find the two girls
lounging on the trail having breakfast. Pleased to have succeeded in
making the long climb, I joined them for a well-earned rest and a breakfast of
oatmeal.
From high
on the mountain, we had an expansive view of the rugged terrain that lay before
us – mountains and valleys and glacier-carved canyons – and somewhere in all
that beauty was the Pacific Crest Trail. We felt small and insignificant,
yet we were thrilled to be privileged to visit and enjoy this unprecedented wilderness.
After our
breakfast break, the three of us left together, but Cookie and Runs-with-Elk
quickly outpaced me and I continued walking solo for the rest of the day.
Towards evening, Swiss Army caught up with me, and finding an established
campsite in a boulder field close by a stream, we decided to make camp there.
After dinner, we visited for a while. Swiss Army confided in me
that this was his second year on the trail. He had started at Campo last
year - 2012, and hiked as far as Castle Crags before having to leave the trail.
Like me, he would always check in with his wife, but on this occasion, he
wasn’t able to make contact with her. He called friends and asked them to
check on her; eventually, he received a phone call back with the disheartening
news that she had passed away in her sleep. He declared that he intended
to go all the way to Canada this year, and I silently applauded him for his
determination and tenacity in sticking to his goal, despite his significant
loss. I really liked Swiss Army; I found him to be gentle and kind, a man
without guile; indeed, a man without an agenda.
Cookie. She and Runs-with-Elk getting ready to strike their tents and get on the trail for the day.
Cookie. She and Runs-with-Elk getting ready to strike their tents and get on the trail for the day.
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