When I left the resort in the early afternoon,
most of the hikers were still there, either sitting on the lawn eating fish
that a fisherman had cooked and given them, or sitting on the porch in front of
the store drinking another round of beer. Only Runs-with-Elk was packed
up and ready to leave.
At the resort, I called Jodie and told her it
would be fine for her and Kathy to meet me in Bend, and we set the rendezvous
place and time to be on Highway 242 at McKenzie Pass at noon.
Cookie and Storytime didn’t come into Shelter
Cove, as both were pushing on to Bend. Cookie said that she hoped to meet
her father in Bend, who was touring the area by bicycle. I told her that
if we arrived at McKenzie Pass at the same time, my wife and I would be glad to
give her a lift into Bend. To this end, we exchanged phone numbers.
Once I made it back to Highway 58, if I had
turned left at the junction, within a mile I would have encountered the
Willamette Ski Resort. Instead, once over the highway, the trail turned
to the right and eventually passed beside the east shore of the three Rosary
Lakes. I camped for the evening just before Lower Rosary Lake.
The Oregon-Washington Pacific Crest Trail
guidebook had this to say about Section E, which was worth quoting:
“In Section E, the PCT traverses three types of
terrain. The first third of this section’s PCT traverses slopes deficient
in both views and lakes. On the middle third, which starts at Irish Lake,
the trail traverses flatter land that is still generally viewless but that is
peppered with very enjoyable lakes (once the mosquito population dwindles).
On the northern third, the trail skirts the Three Sisters, and views
abound of glacier-draped peaks and spreading, sinister lava Flows.” (Schaffer)
In quick succession, I passed by all three
Rosary Lakes and four-hundred-foot-high Rosary Rock which is attractive to rock
climbers, and came to a trail junction leading to Bobby Lake. The trail
to this lake is as well-worn into the dirt as is the PCT. I must have
been asleep at the wheel as I approached this junction and veered off towards
the lake, instead of continuing north on the PCT. I followed the trail
all the way to the lake, never for a moment doubting that it was the PCT.
It was only when the trail started to ascend a group of rocks and
disappeared into the brush that I concluded I was somewhere other than where I
wanted to be. I backtracked to the trail junction, reread the trail
signs, slapped my forehead for being an idiot in not paying better attention to
the trail signage, and moved on.
After a flat walk of several miles, I found a
lake and a trail sign that read Charlton Lake. Attached to the bottom of the
four-by-four trail signpost was a small ammo can. I assumed it to be a
container for a trail register, and wanting to leave my contribution, I opened
the lid to retrieve the notebook. What I found was not what I expected.
It was a notebook with tributes to William Jeffery, also known in the PCT
hiking community, as AsAbat.
William Jeffery, age fifty-four, who went by the
trail name of AsAbat, had camped at this lake last year (2012) and was found
dead in his tent, having died from natural causes. AsAbat wasn’t just any
trail hiker; he was the compiler of the all-important "Water Report"
for Southern California that virtually every hiker depended on. He was
section hiking in the area with his wife driving him to put-in points and then
retrieving him at trail’s end
.
He had departed from Elk Lake farther up the
trail, and was hiking south to Shelter Cove at Odell Lake, where his wife was
to meet him. When he didn’t show up as scheduled, she alerted the
authorities who conducted a search and located Jeffery at his campsite here at
Charlton Lake.
I walked down to the lake to fill up my water
bottles, have lunch, and rest a bit. Samba and Tallywa were also there enjoying
their lunch. Several hundred feet away was a family of four playing in the
water. I wondered where they had come from and how they got to the lake.
As I’m packing up to leave, the family – mom and dad and two young
daughters, walked over to where I was sitting on the ground, and engaged me in
conversation. They were curious to know if I was a PCT hiker, how long I
had been on the trail, and had I seen any bears, etc. In return, I asked
them how they arrived here at the lake, for it was obvious they hadn’t hiked
in. They told me there was a major Forest Service road back in the woods
that brought campers and recreationalists to Waldo Lake about a mile farther to
the west of Charlton Lake. As I was ready to leave, I followed the family
back to where their car was parked in a small trailhead parking lot, found the
trail I needed, and continued north.
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