The trail leading away from the lodge was filled
with day hikers, a ton of them. Most would only walk a short distance before
turning back, while a few would go as far as the first stream crossing at Sandy
River before calling it quits.
The Sandy River bottom was covered with boulders
and bushes, and in a flood-stage situation, the river could be as wide as three
hundred feet, totally obliterating the trail. Today, the river crossing
was only twenty feet wide, but the water, being fed by glacial melt from Mount
Hood, was a milky white color, several feet deep, and flowing fast. I
walked up and down the bank, trying to find a safe place to cross; it was not
going to be an easy boulder hop, and I didn’t want to wade across it, as the
riverbed was filled with large boulders, making for a dicey crossing.
While I was looking for the ideal crossing, two
other hikers appeared on the banks of the river; they were section hikers and
one fellow had hiked this portion of the trail before. The two walked
downstream from where I was standing, and found three very skinny logs that had
been placed over the widest part of the stream. I watched as they
cautiously stepped onto the logs and, while holding their trekking poles out to
their sides, crossed safely. I followed close behind and also made a
successful river crossing.
There were several branches of the river, and
after crossing all of them, I followed the footprints in the sand of others who
have gone before me hoping they will lead me to the trail, but in the heavy brush,
I lost the footprints. Flood waters had erased any vestiges of the trail, and I
was at a loss as to its location. Fortunately, the section hiker who had
been here before, was able to locate the trail when it left the streambed and
climbed an embankment to higher ground above the river.
Within a mile of the river crossing, I came to a
trail junction that led to a scenic attraction labeled Ramona Falls on the
signpost.
My map indicated that it was a loop trail that reconnected with
the PCT farther up the line. The maps also indicated that the loop and
the falls were quite scenic and about the same distance as the official PCT
route. I stayed with the PCT; later, from others who took the alternate
route to Ramona Falls, they said they weren’t that impressed with the falls,
but to each their own
.
The next stream crossing was at lower Muddy
Fork; the stream was flowing fast and deep. I don’t know if the crossing
I made was at the official crossing, but nevertheless, I was just happy to have
crossed without incident.
The crossing itself consisted of two very stout
trees that had fallen across the stream, about twelve feet above the water.
One tree was a few feet higher than the lower tree; therefore, I was able
to walk on the lower tree, and while embracing the upper tree, shuffle along
holding on for dear life to the upper tree. The hardest part of the
crossing was scrambling over the tangle of roots before I could jump off the
tree onto solid ground.
Following this stream crossing, I began a very
slow thirteen-hundred-foot climb to the summit of Bald Mountain and then on
over to the paved highway at Lolo Pass. All the while, the trail stayed
high on the ridges overlooking the valleys below. I wanted to make Indian
Springs Campground my campsite for the evening, but I wasn’t sure where it was.
My trail notes said it was at the end of a four-wheel Jeep road, so that
was what I was looking for. However, several miles before finding the
actual campsite, high on a barren ridge, I stumbled upon the remains of an
abandoned road with small rock shelters that hikers had erected to protect
themselves from the wind. I thought this might be the Indian Springs
campsite, but after looking around for the alternate trail that went down Eagle
Creek, I concluded this wasn’t the right place. Shortly after coming off
this ridge, I did encounter a well-used Jeep road with a wide turnout at the
head of the road, along with several picnic tables, and quickly deduced that this
was the Indian Springs Campground I was looking for.
There was no one around when I arrived, so I had
the place to myself. Off to one side of the campground was a bed of straw
that looked to be the ideal place to set up my tent, as rain was threatening.
I set it up, and then went looking for the spring, which wasn’t hard to
find. I filled my water containers, ate a meal of freeze-dried Mountain
House beef stew, and called it a day.
During the night, someone came in and set their
camp up next to mine. The next morning, I looked to see if I could
recognize who the late-night visitor was, but only found a body curled up
inside a sleeping bag, lying against a tree with a tarp over the bag. My
impression was that it was Hooligan, but I was never able to confirm this.
As I was packing up my gear getting ready for departure, I detected an
unpleasant odor; the straw on which I have been sleeping smelled like horse
urine, and probably was.
The Indian Creek Campground was the dividing
point between the official PCT and the highly recommended scenic Eagle Creek
alternate trail, which most PCT hikers will take to connect with Cascade Locks
on the Columbia River. This fifteen-and-a-half-mile alternate trail
bypassed sixteen and a half miles of the PCT, but not taking this alternate
trail would mean the thru-hiker, who has labored for 2,155 miles, would miss
one of the most spectacular sections of the entire Pacific Crest Trail.
The Indian Creek trail was a steep, muddy, slime
and moss-covered section of trail that connected with the Eagle Creek trail
after two miles of slipping and sliding. Hikers only want to do this
portion of the alternate trail if they’re southbound; no way would a hiker
ever, and I mean ever, want to try and climb this trail northbound with a full
pack.
After the Indian Creek trail connected with the
Eagle Creek trail, the gradient was more gentle and the hiking more pleasant.
Eagle Creek is a tributary of the Columbia River and entered the river
via the Eagle Creek Gorge. Eight major falls are found within the
confines of the gorge and another five are located in side canyons. The
most famous of the falls is Tunnel Falls which derived its name from the tunnel
the trail builders blasted in the rock to allow the trail to go behind the
falls. The trail approaching Tunnel Falls had also been blasted out of the
sheer cliff of lava rock, and is not for the faint of heart. Sections of
the trail before and after the falls have metal rods driven into the solid rock
which are connected by cable to provide a handhold for hikers to hold on to who
may otherwise feel nervous and insecure about traversing the sheer drop-off
trail.
One of many streams cascading off of Mount Hood.
The sides of Mount Hood are heavily eroded. In the distance is a waterfall.
This wasn't much of a log crossing, but it's all there was. A slip, a fall here would have been disastrous.
The was the second stream crossing on Mount Hood. There are actually two logs here, one lying on top of the other. To cross, a hiker has to stand on the lower log and hold on tight to the upper log and then shuffle across. Definitely not for the feint of heart.
One of many streams cascading off of Mount Hood.
The sides of Mount Hood are heavily eroded. In the distance is a waterfall.
This wasn't much of a log crossing, but it's all there was. A slip, a fall here would have been disastrous.
The was the second stream crossing on Mount Hood. There are actually two logs here, one lying on top of the other. To cross, a hiker has to stand on the lower log and hold on tight to the upper log and then shuffle across. Definitely not for the feint of heart.
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